Lake Como you ask?
Wasn’t that last July?
Yes! Yes it was!
But ……better late than never?
:: Italy Recap : Wedding Weekend + Como ::
Remember when I went to Lake Como? Oh ya know….. 3 months ago?
It’s about time for me to finish up the recaps!
Today I am recapping our time outside of Como, Italy for Kip’s family friends wedding and our day trip into Como.
Next up I will *finally* have the recap of our time in Tremezzo, which is the area on Lake Como where we stayed for a week. Before traveling to this part of Italy I didn’t realize how large Lake Como was, and that the towns of Bellgio/Tremezzo/ Varenna/Menaggio were the places people stay and visit, and that the town of Como itself was far more commercialized and not the beatiful areas you see when you picture Lake Como.
So check back next week for Tremezzo/Belaggio/Villa Carlotta/ Villa de Balbianello / Lunch at Locando dell’Isola Comacina and more which will be all of the amazing things to see and do when you stay in that area of Lake Como!
We flew to Amsterdam for a few days by ourselves, then headed to Milan, and then traveled by train to meet up with Kip’s family in a small town outside of Como.
(read our Amsterdam and Milan recaps here)
Kip’s family had an Italian foreign exchange student that they had stayed close with over all these years, so that was the purpose for the family trip. We spent 3-4 days here before traveling to Tremezzo for the week.
The town that the bride + groom and their families live in was amazing. No one spoke English really except for the couple so it was as authentic as I had ever experienced in all of Italy. Trying to order a sandwich or a drink at the little restaurant down the street from our bed and breakfast was nearly impossible but such an experience since everywhere else you have the luxury of being able to speak English, even if only a little.
The groom found us an absolutely adorable Bed and Breakfast to stay in called La Pusianella during our time in Pusiano.
editors note : do not even get me started…. I had to bite my tongue the entire time because I am a child and wanted to laugh hysterically every time.
It overlooked a lake, and there actually was a regatta that weekend that we were able to watch from the patio and backyard.
The woman who owned the bed and breakfast prepared incredible breakfasts for us every morning that we got to eat out on the patio. It was so peaceful!
Oh, and in case you forgot since my post recapping Milan, it was HOT. HOT. HOT.
It was July and there was no AC at the places that we stayed (I thought I was an AC snob before, now I KNOW I am an AC snob.)
While we were there, we were lucky to have a full meal at the groom’s families home that they had prepared for us which was one of the highlights of our time there. We went to an amazing outdoor restaurant on the water the Thursday before the wedding, and got to sit on the covered patio and experience an in an insane summer storm that they said was quite normal. We were drenched running to the car but it was beautiful to watch the lightning and rain from the restaurant.
// NAVY WAFFLE KNIT DRESS // BAUBLE BAR EARRINGS //
Friday during the day we went with the siblings + friends of the couple to the town of Como for the day.
It was lovely and we had a great time, but I realized the next week (and their friends had said) that Como was nothing special compared to what the other towns had in store. To an American, it all is gorgeous and amazing, but Como is definitely more developed and not as quaint as the others.
We took the funincular to the top to get great views over Como and the lake which was fun.
In the States we always think of Friday night as being the night for a “rehearsal dinner” but they don’t have that tradition over there. In fact apparently they don’t always see one another at all on Friday? Maybe that was what Thursday was, but it kind of seemed like that wasn’t a norm either, but just because so many out of towners were in town. We all went back to the groom’s families home for a “BBQ” which was just a ton of amazing food and wine and hanging out before the wedding on Saturday.
// BB DAKOTA CHAMBRAY TOP – CURRENT VERSION // INITIAL NECKLACE, ONLY $16 //
Saturday was finally the wedding!
The church was absolutely gorgeous and in this beautiful town square. (I may have tried to disceretely make my dress a short dress during the ceremony to prevent from melting in to a puddle).
I gave so much thought to what to wear to this wedding based solely on the no AC and hot as heck factor, because I knew I would need to be able to sweat in it without it showing, but when I found this dress I fell in love. It is so insanely comfortable and looked so Italian to me.
The reception after the church was in a gorgeous villa, Villa Calchi, overlooking a vineyard and all of the surrounding hillsides.
The food at cocktail hour alone was absolute perfection, and enough to have counted as the whole meal for the evening!
Then we had a seated dinner, and then a huge dessert spread later in the night. It truly was incredible!
Nicole Miller Watercolor Maxi – I found one on ebay of this dress!
The next day we packed into the Fiat 9 person Van to head from Tremezzo.
For someone who is terrified in cars and the worst back seat driver on the face of the planet, the week of extreme car anxiety began for me. These roads are so narrow and the hills were SO intense in Tremezzo getting to and from our house that I’m shocked I didn’t lose 10 pounds in sweat that week from stress more than the heat. (but, ya know…… Italian food…..so no pounds were lost).
So, I’m sure no one will end up in the cute little town we were in for the Wedding,
but feel free to skip the actual town of Como on your way to the other more beautiful towns along Lake Como.
To see more of my travel posts, click here, or check out the specific guides below.
Packing for 2 Weeks in a Carry On (Amsterdam and Lake Como)
Packing for 2 weeks in a Carry on (Venice, Siena, Florence, Rome, Positano, Amalfi Coast)
Venice Recap // Siena Recap // Florence Recap // Positano Recap I // Positano Recap II
:: Italy Travel Guide : A Day in Milan ::
I’m back today with another travel recap for you from our trip in July:
A guide to 24 hours in Milan!
After 4 days and nights in Amsterdam, we flew to Milan, where we spent a full day before heading to Como for the wedding weekend of Kip’s family friend to begin.
We flew on the beautiful upscale airline EasyJet, which was as bottom of the barrel as I have ever experienced. We had gotten up at about 4:30 AM for our flight, so I was exhausted and started to fall asleep on the plane. When my head hit the back of the seat Kip kept saying “Don’t do that!!! You’ll get lice!!!” He is a germ freak…. but these seats were um, very alarming.
Just wanted to paint a full picture for ya. Cheap flights at their finest. But it was hundreds less than the Delta flight!
Going from the quaint, quiet days in Amsterdam to a bustling city was definitely a jarring change! But Milan was beautiful. I will say, it’s nothing you need to see on an Italian Adventure in our opinion. (Venice, Rome, Florence, etc are all much more worthy of your time!) But it’s the main airport to fly into for much of Northern Italy, and it’s a perfect way to spend a day in Italy after a long flight and get your bearings, or at the end of a trip before flying back home.
:: Where We Stayed ::
We stayed at the Hotel Milano Scala. We really liked the location in City Center; it was far enough away from the very busy areas, but a very quick walk to the Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. We were able to take a train from the airport and walk 10 minutes to the hotel. It’s a cute boutique hotel and we were also sold when we saw that they had a rooftop bar and a beautiful courtyard. The rooms had a gigantic shower and tub which was amazing since we knew the rest of the trip in AirBnB’s and the Bed and Breakfast that was unlikely. A big shower (with big towels- score!) are something of a rarity.
The size of the towels kills me – it’s like a face towel for your body.
Before we went to dinner that night, we went up to the rooftop bar for Apertivo. It was beautiful!
// RED LACE DRESS //
and the Apertivo samplings were very generous!
Other Hotel : Many people recommended the Park Hyatt in Milan. We used Kip’s hotels.com points from work travel to book Hotel Milano Scala!
:: What We Did ::
Again…. this is very different than our last trip to Italy where it was go-go-go. We wanted to just wander and relax before the wedding + family trip began, so that’s exactly what we did. Plus it was hot-hot-hawwwwt in July. I’m sweating just thinking about it.
Oh….. this was also the ONLY night’s sleep during two weeks that we had AIR CONDITIONING….in mid-July….. so just let that simmer around in your mind for a bit….
I just wanted to see the pretty shopping areas 🙂 If I’m going to walk and wander in a beautiful place, doing some incredible window shopping is very much preferred.
Via Montenapoleone and Via Della Spiga
These are the streets that you can walk around and window shop. There were absolutely gorgeous shops – anything and everything from Patek Philipe to Chanel to Van Cleef & Arpels and everything in between. I can’t think of a single luxury store not there!!
// FLORAL ROMPER //
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
This is the oldest “shopping mall” in the world and it’s just gorgeous. Definitely not what I would consider a mall per-say, but just walking through here is incredible. It’s right by the Duomo and everything as well.
The Duomo
Canal District
This was a bit of a walk for us, but the groom that lives in Como (whose wedding we flew to Italy for) had recommended this. It was a cute area with little shops and restaurants and very quaint away from the mayhem of cars and hustle and bustle of the city (there are two canals on the map when you look, one is NOT it, take my word for it :D) .
also recommended by others :
Shop at 10 Corso Como, see The Last Supper, Gothic Cathedral, Sightsee around the Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Ambrosian Library, the Medieval Piazza dei Mercanti, and Castello (castle).
To Eat:
Hostaria Borromei
We went here for dinner the night we were in Milan. This was a recommendation from a reader who called it her “best meal of the trip” and we definitely loved it. Request to sit outside on the patio – it’s beautifully covered in a huge lush ceiling of greenery.
The art on the walk home from dinner back towards our hotel was simply remarkable.
Luini
We went here for lunch pitstop. This is a quick, cheap place where you order at the counter place right next to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (the gorgeous “mall”). They serve panzerotti, or basically deep fried dough filled with whatever you like. It’s like crack – I’m still thinking about it. You walk out of the mall and past a McDonald’s (seriously there is a McD’s right next to like Prada it’s great) and then run right into Luini. The concierge at our hotel told us about it when we dropped our bags and changed and wanted a quick bite. It was truly incredible. It’s unlike anything deep fried you can imagine, and you can get sweet one’s or savory one’s. We got a few deep fried savory sandwiches and it was one of the best things I ate the whole trip (and the cheapest!) Luini is the perfect first pit stop to fuel up for a day of sightseeing.
Drinks on Corso Como
An area with some nightlife and bars and restaurants
An area with some nightlife and bars and restaurants
Outfits from Milan :
I have worn both of these pieces a dozen times and love them so much.
The red lace I have worn from everything from a wedding to date night to a party. You can easily dress it up and down. And the romper is so silky and lightweight that it was perfect for the extreme heat and long days outside!
// RED LACE DRESS // and // FLORAL ROMPER //
We had a great time in Milan – but we were ready to head out of the city life to get to Como and Wedding Weekend! I’ll share more pictures from our trip next week with the wedding, and then our stay in Tremezzo on Lake Como!
:: Packing for 2 Weeks in Europe in Only a Carry On Suitcase ::
Today I have a highly requested packing post for you! The hardest part of a two week vacation is figuring out what to pack. When we went to Italy two years ago, we went to 5 cities and were taking trains and ferries from place to place – we couldn’t have big suitcases to be dragging all across the cobblestone streets from place to place. So I learned how to get very smart with my packing and fit everything into a carry-on suitcase!
You can see my Packing for 2 Weeks in Italy Post from two years ago here.
It gets very, very specific!
So today I am going to share how I did it all again – for two weeks spent first in Amsterdam and then in Italy. This time was harder because I had to pack for cooler temps in Amsterdam, a wedding (which meant an additional pair of shoes just for the wedding) and extreme heat in Italy. With no AC.
But trust me, if I can do it, you can do it!
Always start by making a list. And make the list in advance! I write everything down so that I can make sure I won’t forget anything and can see what I need more or less of. Then I start laying everything out, ideally in a separate room. I used the office as a place to set everything out.
For the suitcase, I roll everything. Then I pack everything into packing cubes. We have one set of compression packing cubes that I love – they are a great space saver to get all of the air out -and another regular set of packing cubes.
I used both regular and compression cubes for this trip.
My most important piece of advice is to be very smart with your carry-on purse. I use this weekender bag and swear by it. I have talked about this bag a zillion times before but truly I would never be able to pack in a carry-on suitcase alone if I didn’t have this bag as my “personal item”.
// SOLE SOCIETY WEEKENDER BAG //
It fits under the seat in front of you, but of course for these international flights you’ll want to put it in the overhead bin. A big thing for this is to pack in lots of pouches or zippered bags, that way you can get to something easily and know right where it is instead of rifling through 50 pounds of your crap!
And pack your purse – that is packed inside the carry-on and ready – with your inflight essentials.
Here is what I fit into the carry-on bag :
Two purses:
One bucket bag for daytime, and one clutch for night that has a detachable cross-body strap.
The bucket bag is great because you can fit so much when you are walking around all day – water, book, a camera, etc.
For the flight, I packed the bucket bag with what I knew I would need during the flight (book, neck pillow, etc.) and kept that at my feet.
// SIMILAR BUCKET BAG // CLUTCH WITH DETACHABLE CHAIN //
clutch is currently 50% off!
A hat, Bose noise cancelling headphones (borrowed and loved them!) eye mask, ear plugs, inflatable neck pillow.
// NECK PILLOW // EYE MASK //
And here is everything that I put in the carry-on bag!
Pouches are the key – I swear. I kept all of my vitamins and medicine and granola bars in one pouch, make-up in one, essentials like earbuds and converters and chargers in one, and then things like tissues and hand cream and hand sanitizer and hair ties and all that in another. When everything is in a pouch you know where it is and can get to it much more easily.
My jewelry is also in a blue travel jewelry case and goes in my carry-on.
Additional necessities – cleansing wipes to wipe down everything at your seat (call me a lunatic, but planes are disgusting and the last thing you want on a vacation like this is to be sick!), big comfy fuzzy socks, scarf, and toiletries ready to pull out for security check and then you can put them in the carry-on-suitcase.
I also had my laptop and charger so that I could blog while there, but unless necessary, I obviously don’t recommend bringing a computer!
Here are some details of what I packed for the trip :
2 sets pajamas
// BUT FIRST COFFEE SHIRT // STRIPED TASSEL SHORTS // FLORAL SHORTS // NAVY SLEEP TANK //
2 bathing suits (I also added in a strapless bikini top, not shown)
// BLACK DESIGNER KNOCK-OFF ONE PIECE //
2 scarves.
2 pairs of jeans, three tank tops, two shorts
3 pairs of shoes (2 sandals, one wedge for the wedding)
don’t judge my gold sandals, they are clearly very worn and loved – they were a godsend on our last Italy trip!
// STRETCH DENIM JEANS // WHITE DENIM JEANS // TISSUE TANK //
Workout Clothes – as much as you want or need.
8 Dresses.
Solid color dresses are a safe bet when making the most out of a carry-on wardrobe because you can wear them multiple times and change your accessories up to make different looks.
// BLACK MAXI // BLUE MAXI // RED LACE DRESS // WHITE LACE DRESS // STRIPED DRESS //
One pair of nice shorts and silk top.
// SAME SHORTS, BUT IN PINEAPPLE PRINT // // WHITE SILK CAMI //
Chambray one shoulder and Chambray button down
the chambray button down is always an essential!
// ONE SHOULDER TOP //
Two rompers.
// FLORAL ROMPER // SIMILAR STRIPED ROMPER //
One dress for the wedding.
I was obsessed with this dress. I want to wear it to the wedding we have this weekend too but feel like it’s too soon and that is a fashion faux pas??
// NICOLE MILLER DRESS //
runs very large, size down – I got a 0 and still had to alter it.
Jewelry.
I leave all delicate, expensive, or important jewelry at home (except for my wedding rings) and put a heavy focus on earrings to change up outfits and make my solid colored dresses more fun.
// BAUBLE BAR TASSEL EARRINGS //
Most curlers/straighteners/blow dryers are not dual voltage, so check yours before bringing it. I got a cheap dual straightener/curler on Amazon for the trip. We also are addicted to our steamer and never travel without it – to us, it’s a necessity. This little mini travel steamer barely takes up any space at all and is a dream. It’s also dual voltage so it can be used internationally.
// TWO WAY IRON // TRAVEL STEAMER //
I also packed a jean jacket and two thin long cardigan sweaters but I don’t have a photo of those!
To end, a summary of some packing tips! If you are doing a big trip to Italy and going city to city, check out my other post for super specific packing list!
Tips for Packing for 2 Weeks in a Carry-On Only :
- Try to stick with solids or a main color scheme so that you can re-wear items as needed but change it up for a different look.
- Do laundry as needed. We brought a small travel size Tide and had access in our AirB&B to laundry, but last time in Italy we washed our underwear in the sink and then hung it to dry across the hotel room. Classy. But whatever works!
- One hanging toiletry bag works best for small bathrooms and easily being able to pack and go from place to place.
- It’s not the time for trendy and fabulous – unless you want to check a bag.
- It’s also not the time for anything expensive or that would devastate you if lost or damaged. when moving cities and switching hotel rooms or air b and b’s constantly you could easily leave something behind like that necklace or earrings
- Accessories are the best way to change up your looks if you have to wear a dress or an outfit more than once, and jewelry takes up barely any space at all in luggage.
- Packing cubes are a dream. They also come in handy as the trip progresses for keeping dirty clothes separate from clean clothes.
- I’m a roller not a folder; I roll everything I can to maximize space and I also pack socks and underwear into any nook and cranny I can find and into shoes to maximize space.
- Wear your bulkiest items on the plane to save room in your suitcase. Also, wear layers on the plane – it goes from hot to very cold easily. Have your socks and scarf ready and waiting in your carry on for when the cold temps kick in!
- Pack everything you will want to have with you at your seat on the place in your purse that you put in your carry-on bag. Then just pull that out and stow your bags in the overhead compartment to have optimal foot room.
- Wrap your shoes in shower caps from hotels or plastic bags to keep them covered. Pack socks and underwear into shoes to save space.
- Don’t forget converters – and more than one. With phones to charge and hairdryers to switch over, you’ll want at least two minimum.
- If you can, leave room for souvenirs along the way, or pack a collapsible bag so that you can check a bag on the way home and have room for everything.
I hope this helps! Oh, and I never wear make-up on these flights, which is another tip.
So ignore my shiny face below!
:: Italy Travel Diaries : Positano Part II ::
I’m back with The Italy Travel Diaries,
today with Part II from our time in Positano!
to read more about our arrival to Positano, where we stayed, and our first two days, see Positano Part I
Day 3:
Our hotel arranged a full boat day around the islands to Capri and back.
It was probably 6 hours in total and something I knew we wanted to do.
The boat was beautiful, and we lucked out with only 4 other people on the boat.
No one within even 20 years of age of us, but that was kind of nice because they all sat in the back and we were able to have the whole front of the boat to ourselves – it felt like a private boat day without the full price of it!
Also, I can’t remember the exact cost of this but it was something very reasonable for what we got – full day on a beautiful boat, drinks, snacks, scenery – and I think it was all for around $60-$80 per person.
On Capri, we rented a scooter to go all the way to top to the little chair lifts.
This was a fun activity and Kip of course loved it.
And we only got screamed at by a cop in Italian once – which for Kip – is a HUGE success.
I had no idea the chairlifts were INDIVIDUAL and it kind of scared the crap out of me.
They also have practically nothing holding you in the chair.
Lovely.
my hair just looked amazing all day.
There isn’t much to do at the top but take in the views – but they were beautiful!
Then we went down to find lunch and walk around before heading back to the boat for the trip back.
Capri overall didn’t amaze us – it was crowded. The dock there is much larger than in Positano or Amalfi or Ravello or Praiano, so HUGE boats just unload people.
We really loved the day on the boat, but Capri was just so so. If we ever get to return – we would do a boat day again, but to one of the other smaller islands.
On the way back, the boat takes you to the grotto’s – we went around the blue grotto but didn’t go in – there is aline and the boat has to drop you off and get you on the other side.
Instead we went to the green grotto, and then went to other little caves to swim around.
The caves were gorgeous. And just the scenery all day in general of course.
it was such a perfect afternoon in the water and in the caves
(and I learned that Kip has a fear of caves….. he refused to swim in because the water could rise and kill us ….. how ’bout that? so I swam all the way in and it was amazing)
That night we changed, went to back to Brezza for cocktails, and then walked over to where Chez Black and Tres Sorrel and decided to eat at Tres Sorrel/Three Sisters because I had heard good things.
We loved our meal! And as always, right on the water and in the perfect spot for people watching.
The soccer games were all on, and of course everyone there was all about it, so we wandered to another little outdoor bar spot to watch the games with everyone before ending the night back on our balcony.
The last day was spent back on the beach.
This time we had lunch at the little restaurant right on the beach which was so cheap and we literally had a HUGE pitcher of wine for $5. We couldn’t even finish it before we went back to our spots at our chairs, which is really saying something.
One thing we didn’t do that I really wish we had was take the little boat with the red fish over to Da Adolfo. We were lazy and stayed where we were…. I couldn’t convince Kipper to move beach locales again 🙂 But everyone highly recommends that and then eating lunch over there.
The final night we ate at Buca di Bacco and it was so, so yummy.
They also have a more casual restaurant downstairs with a bar – good for apertivo.
There were so many restaurants I wanted to try and just not enough time.
:: leaving positano ::
on our final morning, we woke up and had plenty of time to enjoy breakfast and sit on our patio and do shopping before our ferry took us over to Sorrento at 12.
OR SO WE THOUGHT.
I hadn’t bought any Italian leather sandals yet because we were saving this for today….. and this guy that did hand paintings down by the docks – today was the day to buy it on our way out and stick it in our suitcases.
OR SO I THOUGHT.
so we go down after breakfast to get our ferry ticket and “no ferry today”.
it was slightly cloudy and that is all.
sooooo the one travel logistic that didn’t work out began.
he sent us all the way up to the gas stations to get a bus ticket.
we hike all the way up there – I am pouring sweating – and there is no area here at all to get a bus ticket.
someone there sends us to a little travel agency…… they send us somewhere else….. and then somewhere else….. and during all of this they share that no cars or anything else are available because everyone has snagged them since the ferry isn’t running.
SO we finally get our bus tickets and prepare to book it back to our hotel to grab our things and then book it all the way back to where we originally were.
I. Am. Pouring. Sweat.
Like….. drenched. I do not glow, my scalp sweats so much you think I’ve showered.
SO we get back into the hotel lobby to get our key and there is a couple that is discovering what we just had.
The woman looks at me and hands me two kleenex on the stop and says “I think you need these….”
Embarrassed? Yes. Appreciative? YES.
So, we can’t just grab our bags and go – we both have to somehow try to shower really really quick and then go up 9,000 steps with our luggage to the main road to catch the local bus that will take us to the main road for the big bus.
By the time I get to the small road for the local bus, I once again look as though I’ve been swimming.
The local bus never arrives on time, because there is so much traffic on the little local road, and in order for us to have any chance of making the big bus, we need to walk (CLIMB. UPHILL.) up the street all the way to the top.
On the way there are other people clearly doing the same thing…. all of us scrambling.
We make it just a few minutes before the bus arrives and when we roll over to the side of the road to wait, our friends from the lobby are there.
She literally hands me her whole thing of kleenex and tells me to keep it. There aren’t even close to enough Kleenex in there to help my current situation, but again, much appreciated.
So the bus arrives and it becomes like a madhouse to get on. There was no way for a line to form so people are just on the side of the road and then start scrambling.
The bus guy doesn’t open the luggage doors below – he says “no time” – so everyone with their huge suitcase is trying to get on and sit on top of their luggage in the seats. We made it on, so we didn’t care, but I sat with my legs on top of my luggage then crammed against the window and was on the verge of puking all the way there. I don’t get car sick – but yikes.
And we were crammed next to the nicest people who we talked to the whole time over which was a nice distraction from the insane nausea.
ANYWAYS – lesson learned : the ferries REALLY don’t run randomly, and get your shoes and your art and all your little things BEFORE the morning you are leaving.
BUT, also a lesson that things will work out – you just will likely be sweating like a whore in church when they do.
AREN’T YOU SO GLAD YOU READ ALL OF THAT?
that’s what I thought…….
We took the bus to Sorrento, where we stayed for one night, before going on to Rome for our last 3 nights.
Sorrento and Rome recaps coming up next!
Spoiler Alert : Sorrento was nothing special, we just used it as an easy travel spot to get to Rome, but we were OBSESSED with our 5 Star hotel that we got for an insanely cheap rate on trip advisor and LOVED everything about it.
Grand Hotel La Favorita.
below, I’ve copy and pasted everything that I compiled from friends and the internet for tips and things to do, etc :
:: POSITANO / SORRENTO ::
Sights +
Activities
Activities
* Walk the town!
* Hire
a semi-private boat to take us on a day trip to Capri
a semi-private boat to take us on a day trip to Capri
*If you
can, go to One Fire Beach one day! They also arrange pick ups in Positano by
boat, but they have a gorgeous beach swim spot, full bar/restaurant service,
play fun music, and offer lounge chairs, towels, etc. I’m sure you could cab to
the top and walk down the ~200 steps too
can, go to One Fire Beach one day! They also arrange pick ups in Positano by
boat, but they have a gorgeous beach swim spot, full bar/restaurant service,
play fun music, and offer lounge chairs, towels, etc. I’m sure you could cab to
the top and walk down the ~200 steps too
* “Path of the Gods” hike –
incredible views! We took the bus to one of the highest points in Positano and
the two hour hike ends up in the neighboring town – Priano – we took the bus
back to Positano
incredible views! We took the bus to one of the highest points in Positano and
the two hour hike ends up in the neighboring town – Priano – we took the bus
back to Positano
Food
*La Sirenuse.
Nicest hotel in town; go to their restaurant/bar for a cocktail and the
amazing view over the water.
Nicest hotel in town; go to their restaurant/bar for a cocktail and the
amazing view over the water.
*La
Strada in Priano was amazing. They had a lemon pasta that I was OBSESSED with.
I still salivate when I think of it. If you want to get out of Positano one
night, I’d suggest the patio here. Also, offers a great view of the sunset.
Strada in Priano was amazing. They had a lemon pasta that I was OBSESSED with.
I still salivate when I think of it. If you want to get out of Positano one
night, I’d suggest the patio here. Also, offers a great view of the sunset.
*Le Tre
Sorelle or “The Three Sisters”, relatives still run it and although
it’s on the main beach strip, the food was AMAZING. We also got really wasted
on house wine – it was just SO delicious. My husband ordered the red snapper
with cherry tomatoes and potatoes and loved it.
Sorelle or “The Three Sisters”, relatives still run it and although
it’s on the main beach strip, the food was AMAZING. We also got really wasted
on house wine – it was just SO delicious. My husband ordered the red snapper
with cherry tomatoes and potatoes and loved it.
*Chez
Black, a bunch of hype and always packed. Maybe for a drink and some people
watching.
Black, a bunch of hype and always packed. Maybe for a drink and some people
watching.
*Buca
di Bacco – get some pizza in their cafe downstairs. It’s really delicious!
Their gelato was also some of my favorite!
di Bacco – get some pizza in their cafe downstairs. It’s really delicious!
Their gelato was also some of my favorite!
*La
Zagara is an outdoor garden like restaurant/bar and some nights they have live
music! Try some of their desserts- specifically their canolis or anything lemon
because attached to La Zagara is a limoncello store/”factory” owned
by La Zagara’s owners wife; everything in there is either made/grown by them or
an artisan in town. We skipped this, but you can also go on the little tour of
what they call a “factory” (aka a small kitchen space in the
basement) where they make their limoncello.
Zagara is an outdoor garden like restaurant/bar and some nights they have live
music! Try some of their desserts- specifically their canolis or anything lemon
because attached to La Zagara is a limoncello store/”factory” owned
by La Zagara’s owners wife; everything in there is either made/grown by them or
an artisan in town. We skipped this, but you can also go on the little tour of
what they call a “factory” (aka a small kitchen space in the
basement) where they make their limoncello.
*We
went to Le Sirene, a restaurant that picks you up by boat, which is SO fun. I
would skip Le Sirene and go to Alfonsos (Da Adolfo) for lunch (it’s right next
door)! They pick you up by boat in Positano and take you to their cove.
went to Le Sirene, a restaurant that picks you up by boat, which is SO fun. I
would skip Le Sirene and go to Alfonsos (Da Adolfo) for lunch (it’s right next
door)! They pick you up by boat in Positano and take you to their cove.
*Casa e
Bottega – the cutest little breakfast/lunch spot that had smoothies, freshly
baked pastries, and wonderful woman to speak to. We sat at the counter and had
breakfast. It was less expensive than other options and really enjoyable!
Bottega – the cutest little breakfast/lunch spot that had smoothies, freshly
baked pastries, and wonderful woman to speak to. We sat at the counter and had
breakfast. It was less expensive than other options and really enjoyable!
*Da
Adolfo – We loved this! private beach/restaurant. They have their own boat that
picks you up on the dock and takes you to the other side of the island. Red Fish Boat, takes about 5 minutes. The
seafood was amazing.
Adolfo – We loved this! private beach/restaurant. They have their own boat that
picks you up on the dock and takes you to the other side of the island. Red Fish Boat, takes about 5 minutes. The
seafood was amazing.
*La
Tagliata – Restaurant sends a private bus where you go to the highest point on
the mountain. No menu – they serve you what is fresh and what they make and put
a bottle of wine on the table (or 2 or 3 ) depending on your
preference. Cheapest meal we had the whole time we were in Italy.
Tagliata – Restaurant sends a private bus where you go to the highest point on
the mountain. No menu – they serve you what is fresh and what they make and put
a bottle of wine on the table (or 2 or 3 ) depending on your
preference. Cheapest meal we had the whole time we were in Italy.
Tips
Note that the
beaches are rock but you can rent a lawn chair for like 12 euro for the day but
be sure to get there really early. You can also rent a boat or kayak and go out
in the water on your own.
beaches are rock but you can rent a lawn chair for like 12 euro for the day but
be sure to get there really early. You can also rent a boat or kayak and go out
in the water on your own.
Logistics
Consider the City Sightseeing Sorrento Bus to get from
Sorrento to Positano with a more enjoyable ride (10 Euro )
Sorrento to Positano with a more enjoyable ride (10 Euro )
Capri Boat Trip for the Day
Take the Funiculare to
the top, eat at Aurora for lunch at the top
the top, eat at Aurora for lunch at the top
:: Italy Travel Diaries : Positano Part One ::
One of the best parts of our trip to Italy, if not THE best part, was our stay in Positano.
It is just as magical and beautiful as it looks in pictures.
Everything abut it was perfection.
We did 4 nights in Positano and almost extended our trip to 5 once we were there….. and definitely could have done 6 🙂 We both loved it so much.
We did this part of our trip a little bit different than most people, for a couple of reasons.
Most people that are making their way South through Italy would go to Rome from Florence and then end in Positano. I changed it up for two reasons. I wanted a break from all of the sight-seeing and go-go-go because I thought Rome would just be exhausting after all the big city things we had been doing. I am really glad I made that decision because Rome WAS physically exhausting, but luckily we had relaxed for 5 days prior.
Also, getting OUT of Positano can be tricky. If there is “bad weather”, the ferries do not run. (and this happened to us when we were leaving…. and there was not a cloud in the sky….) Also, the roads are super windy and tiny, and taking a car from Positano to the Naples airport would have meant getting up extremely early, getting a car to Naples, and also having a layover on the way back.
I forgot that was my third reason – I didn’t want to go to Naples as everyone says its the worst part to be and I wanted a direct flight straight home.
So, because of all of that, we took a little bit longer of a train ride and bypassed Rome to go straight to Positano.
Then afterwards we went back North to end our trip in Rome.
I had planned a ton of the trip and almost all of it was very easy.
The one thing I could not decide on or figure out was the best way to get to Positano.
I was nervous about the ferries not running, but I didnt want to get packed onto a bus on the windy nauseating roads (which we had to do on the way out of Positano and was quite the experience, but more on that next post).
We had originally decided to take the train to Sorrento, and then take a bus or a ferry or something when we got off. (because I couldn’t figure out the schedule of any of them in advance).
I changed our route while we mid-train. Our train to the Naples train station was ending in Salerno…. and I realized while we were on board that there were ferries from Salerno that would take us straight to Positano. So I did the whole “pass your end location” again and we went a little bit past Positano but got to stay on the fast train to Salerno which saved a lot of time in the end. I used the internet on the train to change our ticket for a few Euros to Salerno, and from there we went to the little travel agency at the entrance of the station to buy 2 ferry tickets to Positano.
It ended up being perfect. We walked a few blocks to the water, sat and ate pizza at a place where no one spoke a drop of english and sat in the sun with some wine while we waited for our 2:00 ferry.
these two giant pizzas and a half bottle of wine was something less than $10. loved it.
We had a 30 minute ferry ride and it was beautiful and we got to see all the little stops along the way like Amalfi and Praiano and it was like a free tour added right in.
The only obnoxious part was the group of University of Arizona study abroad kids ripping pulls from an Absolute bottle and hanging off the side of the boat (literally about to fall off) taking pictures in their crop tops absolutely WASTED. It was horrifying. I was mortified to be an American.
but the rest was great 🙂
When we arrived in Positano, there are all of these bag boys ( I believe in red shirts? ) asking where you are staying and you can pay them to bring your bag to your destination because, DUH, its like a million steps and who wants to lug their crap themselves.
Although I assured Kip I hadn’t heard from anyone that this wasn’t legit, in true Kipper fashion, he did not trust giving our bags to total strangers, sooooo his backpack went on my back and he grabbed the suitcases. When the hotel manager saw us sweating carry our bags in to the lobby she definitely looked at us like we were crazy 🙂 And I looked at Kip like he was too, but we had our things and checked right in!
I talked last time about our incredible hotel, Hotel Miramare.
I can’t recommend the hotel, Rosita, and our room (221) enough.
See more on that here.
Rosita gave us the low down on places to go and things to do, and we changed out of our slightly sweaty clothes and went down the stairs to Brezza for apertivo. Brezza is right off the main little pier, next to Chez Black and Three Sisters & all of that. It overlooks the water and everyone coming in off the beach. It was one of our favorite spots for the whole trip, their free snacks that came with our apertivo were incredible and it was such a great casual happy hour. Loved it.
We went back to the hotel to shower and go for dinner, and we went up the stairs to a spot above our hotel for a delicious pasta meal (no clue what the restaurant was, I’m sorry! I didn’t write it down) before spending the rest of our first night on our balcony with wine.
It was beautiful all lit up at night.
It was the first of many simple days and perfect relaxing nights in Positano and we were already in love.
Our first morning, we woke up and had a delicious breakfast at our hotel.
The breakfast room was so gorgeous, and it was one of our favorite breakfasts of the trip – they had tons of options (and lots of hot eggs and bacon or sausage, which Kip didnt have everywhere so he was super pleased).
We had been told to avoid the main beach where all the boats drop everyone off, and instead to walk across the (gorgeous) pathway to the left to Spiaggia Beach.
It was heaven.
and we may have been one of the first people there the first day…. oops.
I didnt sleep in on this trip – I wouldn’t have wanted to anyway, but I was always ready to go by 8 am after likely tossing and turning despite multiple glasses of wine to the face the day and night before.
no complaints – more time to sit on the beach! 
you have to rent the chairs, and depending on how close you are to the water the more euros per chair they will charge you.
the ones right up front were 8-10 euro, and cheaper as it went back.
also, WHY are the lounge chairs in America not like these? They have this little shade cover you can pull up so that you can perfectly shade your face and it makes it so easy to read.
I loved those damn lounge chairs. The blue and white stripes didn’t hurt either.
we read and swam and relaxed on the beach until lunch time.
they also had a cliff jump that was fun to watch kip and everyone go off of, but no pictures because it was all the way around the side in the water so I had to swim around to watch.
For lunch, we walked back up a tiny bit to Lo Guarracino (two fishes) which overlooked spiaggia beach.
it was pricier for lunch, much pricier than the little places that were right on spiaggia beach (where we ate later, and were still delicious) but it was worth it for the view and a nice afternoon lunch break.
and they turned my pizza into a heart. it was so cute.
seriously this little walkway to and from spiaggia beach was one of my favorite parts
we showered up and relaxed on our deck before going to one of the restaurants all the way at the top of Positano.
La Tagliata.
They send a car from the restaurant to your hotel to pick you up, and then will also take you back after dinner.
It was gorgeous and super romantical and my pictures display absolutely none of it 🙂
the food was so, so good and the staff was so sweet.
we had an insane risotto here that Kip talked about repeatedly.
are these posts wordy enough for you?
did I confuse you enough with my directions for how we ass-backwards made it to Positano?
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And incase you missed previous Italy Posts:
