I’m back with The Italy Travel Diaries,
today with Part II from our time in Positano!
to read more about our arrival to Positano, where we stayed, and our first two days, see Positano Part I
Day 3:
Our hotel arranged a full boat day around the islands to Capri and back.
It was probably 6 hours in total and something I knew we wanted to do.
The boat was beautiful, and we lucked out with only 4 other people on the boat.
No one within even 20 years of age of us, but that was kind of nice because they all sat in the back and we were able to have the whole front of the boat to ourselves – it felt like a private boat day without the full price of it!
Also, I can’t remember the exact cost of this but it was something very reasonable for what we got – full day on a beautiful boat, drinks, snacks, scenery – and I think it was all for around $60-$80 per person.
On Capri, we rented a scooter to go all the way to top to the little chair lifts.
This was a fun activity and Kip of course loved it.
And we only got screamed at by a cop in Italian once – which for Kip – is a HUGE success.
I had no idea the chairlifts were INDIVIDUAL and it kind of scared the crap out of me.
They also have practically nothing holding you in the chair.
Lovely.
my hair just looked amazing all day.
There isn’t much to do at the top but take in the views – but they were beautiful!
Then we went down to find lunch and walk around before heading back to the boat for the trip back.
Capri overall didn’t amaze us – it was crowded. The dock there is much larger than in Positano or Amalfi or Ravello or Praiano, so HUGE boats just unload people.
We really loved the day on the boat, but Capri was just so so. If we ever get to return – we would do a boat day again, but to one of the other smaller islands.
On the way back, the boat takes you to the grotto’s – we went around the blue grotto but didn’t go in – there is aline and the boat has to drop you off and get you on the other side.
Instead we went to the green grotto, and then went to other little caves to swim around.
The caves were gorgeous. And just the scenery all day in general of course.
it was such a perfect afternoon in the water and in the caves
(and I learned that Kip has a fear of caves….. he refused to swim in because the water could rise and kill us ….. how ’bout that? so I swam all the way in and it was amazing)
That night we changed, went to back to Brezza for cocktails, and then walked over to where Chez Black and Tres Sorrel and decided to eat at Tres Sorrel/Three Sisters because I had heard good things.
We loved our meal! And as always, right on the water and in the perfect spot for people watching.
The soccer games were all on, and of course everyone there was all about it, so we wandered to another little outdoor bar spot to watch the games with everyone before ending the night back on our balcony.
The last day was spent back on the beach.
This time we had lunch at the little restaurant right on the beach which was so cheap and we literally had a HUGE pitcher of wine for $5. We couldn’t even finish it before we went back to our spots at our chairs, which is really saying something.
One thing we didn’t do that I really wish we had was take the little boat with the red fish over to Da Adolfo. We were lazy and stayed where we were…. I couldn’t convince Kipper to move beach locales again 🙂 But everyone highly recommends that and then eating lunch over there.
The final night we ate at Buca di Bacco and it was so, so yummy.
They also have a more casual restaurant downstairs with a bar – good for apertivo.
There were so many restaurants I wanted to try and just not enough time.
:: leaving positano ::
on our final morning, we woke up and had plenty of time to enjoy breakfast and sit on our patio and do shopping before our ferry took us over to Sorrento at 12.
OR SO WE THOUGHT.
I hadn’t bought any Italian leather sandals yet because we were saving this for today….. and this guy that did hand paintings down by the docks – today was the day to buy it on our way out and stick it in our suitcases.
OR SO I THOUGHT.
so we go down after breakfast to get our ferry ticket and “no ferry today”.
it was slightly cloudy and that is all.
sooooo the one travel logistic that didn’t work out began.
he sent us all the way up to the gas stations to get a bus ticket.
we hike all the way up there – I am pouring sweating – and there is no area here at all to get a bus ticket.
someone there sends us to a little travel agency…… they send us somewhere else….. and then somewhere else….. and during all of this they share that no cars or anything else are available because everyone has snagged them since the ferry isn’t running.
SO we finally get our bus tickets and prepare to book it back to our hotel to grab our things and then book it all the way back to where we originally were.
I. Am. Pouring. Sweat.
Like….. drenched. I do not glow, my scalp sweats so much you think I’ve showered.
SO we get back into the hotel lobby to get our key and there is a couple that is discovering what we just had.
The woman looks at me and hands me two kleenex on the stop and says “I think you need these….”
Embarrassed? Yes. Appreciative? YES.
So, we can’t just grab our bags and go – we both have to somehow try to shower really really quick and then go up 9,000 steps with our luggage to the main road to catch the local bus that will take us to the main road for the big bus.
By the time I get to the small road for the local bus, I once again look as though I’ve been swimming.
The local bus never arrives on time, because there is so much traffic on the little local road, and in order for us to have any chance of making the big bus, we need to walk (CLIMB. UPHILL.) up the street all the way to the top.
On the way there are other people clearly doing the same thing…. all of us scrambling.
We make it just a few minutes before the bus arrives and when we roll over to the side of the road to wait, our friends from the lobby are there.
She literally hands me her whole thing of kleenex and tells me to keep it. There aren’t even close to enough Kleenex in there to help my current situation, but again, much appreciated.
So the bus arrives and it becomes like a madhouse to get on. There was no way for a line to form so people are just on the side of the road and then start scrambling.
The bus guy doesn’t open the luggage doors below – he says “no time” – so everyone with their huge suitcase is trying to get on and sit on top of their luggage in the seats. We made it on, so we didn’t care, but I sat with my legs on top of my luggage then crammed against the window and was on the verge of puking all the way there. I don’t get car sick – but yikes.
And we were crammed next to the nicest people who we talked to the whole time over which was a nice distraction from the insane nausea.
ANYWAYS – lesson learned : the ferries REALLY don’t run randomly, and get your shoes and your art and all your little things BEFORE the morning you are leaving.
BUT, also a lesson that things will work out – you just will likely be sweating like a whore in church when they do.
AREN’T YOU SO GLAD YOU READ ALL OF THAT?
that’s what I thought…….
We took the bus to Sorrento, where we stayed for one night, before going on to Rome for our last 3 nights.
Sorrento and Rome recaps coming up next!
Spoiler Alert : Sorrento was nothing special, we just used it as an easy travel spot to get to Rome, but we were OBSESSED with our 5 Star hotel that we got for an insanely cheap rate on trip advisor and LOVED everything about it.
Grand Hotel La Favorita.
below, I’ve copy and pasted everything that I compiled from friends and the internet for tips and things to do, etc :
:: POSITANO / SORRENTO ::
Sights +
Activities
Activities
* Walk the town!
* Hire
a semi-private boat to take us on a day trip to Capri
a semi-private boat to take us on a day trip to Capri
*If you
can, go to One Fire Beach one day! They also arrange pick ups in Positano by
boat, but they have a gorgeous beach swim spot, full bar/restaurant service,
play fun music, and offer lounge chairs, towels, etc. I’m sure you could cab to
the top and walk down the ~200 steps too
can, go to One Fire Beach one day! They also arrange pick ups in Positano by
boat, but they have a gorgeous beach swim spot, full bar/restaurant service,
play fun music, and offer lounge chairs, towels, etc. I’m sure you could cab to
the top and walk down the ~200 steps too
* “Path of the Gods” hike –
incredible views! We took the bus to one of the highest points in Positano and
the two hour hike ends up in the neighboring town – Priano – we took the bus
back to Positano
incredible views! We took the bus to one of the highest points in Positano and
the two hour hike ends up in the neighboring town – Priano – we took the bus
back to Positano
Food
*La Sirenuse.
Nicest hotel in town; go to their restaurant/bar for a cocktail and the
amazing view over the water.
Nicest hotel in town; go to their restaurant/bar for a cocktail and the
amazing view over the water.
*La
Strada in Priano was amazing. They had a lemon pasta that I was OBSESSED with.
I still salivate when I think of it. If you want to get out of Positano one
night, I’d suggest the patio here. Also, offers a great view of the sunset.
Strada in Priano was amazing. They had a lemon pasta that I was OBSESSED with.
I still salivate when I think of it. If you want to get out of Positano one
night, I’d suggest the patio here. Also, offers a great view of the sunset.
*Le Tre
Sorelle or “The Three Sisters”, relatives still run it and although
it’s on the main beach strip, the food was AMAZING. We also got really wasted
on house wine – it was just SO delicious. My husband ordered the red snapper
with cherry tomatoes and potatoes and loved it.
Sorelle or “The Three Sisters”, relatives still run it and although
it’s on the main beach strip, the food was AMAZING. We also got really wasted
on house wine – it was just SO delicious. My husband ordered the red snapper
with cherry tomatoes and potatoes and loved it.
*Chez
Black, a bunch of hype and always packed. Maybe for a drink and some people
watching.
Black, a bunch of hype and always packed. Maybe for a drink and some people
watching.
*Buca
di Bacco – get some pizza in their cafe downstairs. It’s really delicious!
Their gelato was also some of my favorite!
di Bacco – get some pizza in their cafe downstairs. It’s really delicious!
Their gelato was also some of my favorite!
*La
Zagara is an outdoor garden like restaurant/bar and some nights they have live
music! Try some of their desserts- specifically their canolis or anything lemon
because attached to La Zagara is a limoncello store/”factory” owned
by La Zagara’s owners wife; everything in there is either made/grown by them or
an artisan in town. We skipped this, but you can also go on the little tour of
what they call a “factory” (aka a small kitchen space in the
basement) where they make their limoncello.
Zagara is an outdoor garden like restaurant/bar and some nights they have live
music! Try some of their desserts- specifically their canolis or anything lemon
because attached to La Zagara is a limoncello store/”factory” owned
by La Zagara’s owners wife; everything in there is either made/grown by them or
an artisan in town. We skipped this, but you can also go on the little tour of
what they call a “factory” (aka a small kitchen space in the
basement) where they make their limoncello.
*We
went to Le Sirene, a restaurant that picks you up by boat, which is SO fun. I
would skip Le Sirene and go to Alfonsos (Da Adolfo) for lunch (it’s right next
door)! They pick you up by boat in Positano and take you to their cove.
went to Le Sirene, a restaurant that picks you up by boat, which is SO fun. I
would skip Le Sirene and go to Alfonsos (Da Adolfo) for lunch (it’s right next
door)! They pick you up by boat in Positano and take you to their cove.
*Casa e
Bottega – the cutest little breakfast/lunch spot that had smoothies, freshly
baked pastries, and wonderful woman to speak to. We sat at the counter and had
breakfast. It was less expensive than other options and really enjoyable!
Bottega – the cutest little breakfast/lunch spot that had smoothies, freshly
baked pastries, and wonderful woman to speak to. We sat at the counter and had
breakfast. It was less expensive than other options and really enjoyable!
*Da
Adolfo – We loved this! private beach/restaurant. They have their own boat that
picks you up on the dock and takes you to the other side of the island. Red Fish Boat, takes about 5 minutes. The
seafood was amazing.
Adolfo – We loved this! private beach/restaurant. They have their own boat that
picks you up on the dock and takes you to the other side of the island. Red Fish Boat, takes about 5 minutes. The
seafood was amazing.
*La
Tagliata – Restaurant sends a private bus where you go to the highest point on
the mountain. No menu – they serve you what is fresh and what they make and put
a bottle of wine on the table (or 2 or 3 ) depending on your
preference. Cheapest meal we had the whole time we were in Italy.
Tagliata – Restaurant sends a private bus where you go to the highest point on
the mountain. No menu – they serve you what is fresh and what they make and put
a bottle of wine on the table (or 2 or 3 ) depending on your
preference. Cheapest meal we had the whole time we were in Italy.
Tips
Note that the
beaches are rock but you can rent a lawn chair for like 12 euro for the day but
be sure to get there really early. You can also rent a boat or kayak and go out
in the water on your own.
beaches are rock but you can rent a lawn chair for like 12 euro for the day but
be sure to get there really early. You can also rent a boat or kayak and go out
in the water on your own.
Logistics
Consider the City Sightseeing Sorrento Bus to get from
Sorrento to Positano with a more enjoyable ride (10 Euro )
Sorrento to Positano with a more enjoyable ride (10 Euro )
Capri Boat Trip for the Day
Take the Funiculare to
the top, eat at Aurora for lunch at the top
the top, eat at Aurora for lunch at the top
